Srimukhalingam: The Timeless Abode of Lord Ganesha in Andhra Pradesh
Tucked away in the northeastern corner of Andhra Pradesh, Srimukhalingam may be off most tourist maps, but this quiet town in Srikakulam district is a living repository of history and devotion.
Once the capital of the Kalinga Empire, Srimukhalingam has preserved an unbroken tradition of worship of Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed remover of obstacles, for over 2,000 years. For locals, devotion to Ganesha is not only spiritual—it is woven into the rhythm of daily life, festivals, and community celebrations.
Epigraphist Bishnu Mohan Adhikari points out that traces of Ganesha worship in the region date back to the reign of Kharavela, the legendary 1st-century BCE Kalinga ruler. Rock-cut caves from this period depict the deity in ritual settings, emphasizing his role as the first god to be worshipped before any sacred ceremony. Even today, devotees entering temples in Srimukhalingam perform a brief Ganesha puja before proceeding to other shrines—a tradition that has endured for centuries.
The Mathara dynasty (4th–6th century CE) reinforced the prominence of Ganesha. Sculptures from Mandasa near Mahendragiri testify to the deity’s cultural and spiritual importance. With the Eastern Ganga dynasty’s rise in the 6th century CE, Ganesha worship received renewed architectural expression. The Gangas, ruling from Kalinganagara (present-day Mukhalingam), built several temples placing Ganesha at the heart of devotion.
The Madhukeswara group of monuments is particularly remarkable. Visitors today can still see Siddha Vinayaka, Nrutya Ganesha, and Varada Ganesha, each with distinct iconography. Among the town’s architectural gems is the Dundi Ganapati temple, constructed in the rare Khakhara style in the 8th century, alongside a Pidha Deula style shrine at the southern boundary of Madhukeswara temple. Ganesha also features in the Saptamatrika panel of the Varahi Durga temple, emphasizing his role as a guardian within the Shakta tradition. Inscriptions from Eastern Ganga ruler Narasimha Deva (1396 CE) reflect both royal patronage and popular devotion.
Srimukhalingam comes alive during Ganesh Chaturthi, when the temples are thronged by devotees from across Andhra Pradesh and neighboring Odisha. Local legend holds that the Siddha Vinayaka of Madhukeswara temple is especially powerful in removing obstacles for those embarking on new ventures. Traditional rituals, from floral offerings to ceremonial dance, continue much as they did centuries ago, preserving the spiritual continuity of the town.
Beyond Mukhalingam, the tradition of Ganesha worship spreads across Srikakulam and into Parvatipuram and Vizianagaram. Temples such as Vaidyanatha, Poteswara, Somewara, Bhimeswara, Neeliswara, Sangameswara, Kamalingeswara, and Dibbilingeswara feature Ganesha idols carved in the unmistakable Kalinga style, often as Paswa Devatas, integral to Shiva worship.
Walking through Srimukhalingam today, visitors are struck by the serenity of its temples and lanes. The town tells a story of devotion that has survived dynastic shifts, centuries of change, and the passage of time—a story of a small town keeping alive the worship of a deity cherished by kings, priests, and generations of devotees alike.